MQ Triton Body lift Posted on 16 Apr 10:44
Best to be done with a hoist although this can be completed with a jack and something to spread the load eg. timber under the sills.
Please note most of these mods are required for the 2" body lift only but use your own discrepancy if your car is in need of this mod for 1" body lift.
- Check that the wheels are on the ground so there is no movement when relocating the body back down later.
- Remove all trims on the A, B and C pillar to uncover the body mount bolts
- A pillar is located just near the accelerator pedal under a rubber grommet
- B is located under the carpet near the B pillar under a rubber grommet
- C is located under the carpet/behind the back seat under a rubber grommet
- Remove rubber flaps on the inside of both front inner guards and remove both front inner splash guards.
- Remove earth strap from the frame to body located in the left hand front inner guard.
- Remove the inner guard from the left-hand rear to reveal the fuel filler neck.
- Undo the screws holding the fuel filler to the body of the car located inside the fuel flap.
- Remove the clips holding the fuel flap cable.
- Unclip the A/C line around the alternator. To be refitted later after bending the bracket.
- Remove clip from bracket in left and right front inner guards.
- Remove vacuum line in drivers inner guard shown in picture. Refit after body lift.
- Remove harness off clip in picture located on fire wall.
- Remove the intake hose from the airbox to the turbo. To be refitted later.
- Slide the top radiator hose of both sides a little bit to gain more movement and refit clamps.
- Remove the bottom part of the radiator shroud.
- Unclip harness from the rear transfer case to the body.
- Remove the 12mm blot on the inner front side of both rear wheel wells.
- Uncoil brake lines in both the inner front guards.
- Remove tow bar plug. (This may need to be extended depending on the rear tow bar.
- Remove tub liner if you have one fitted.
- Always lift the cab first.
- Support the cab with a hoist. Keep in mind the front of the cab will be heavier so remember to balance the weight properly as to avoid it falling or swaying.
- Remove all body bolts from the cab – two in the front and 6 in the cab.
- Remove the floating mount bracket on the frame under pillar B.
- Lift the cab. Do it slowly and constantly check as you go.
- Place the body back above the factory rubbers. Lower body back down. Locate and start all placing the bolts back in but do not do them up tightly until they’re all in.
- Lower the body fully and tighten all bolts.
- Flip the floating mount for pillow B upside down and place washers on top of the bolt to space down.
- Refit A/C line after bending bracket. A zip tie helps locate the line and hold it out of the way. Also refit wiring harness at the fire wall to bracket after bending it.
- Bend heat shield away from the A/C lines near the DPF.
- Fit the extended earth wire to the front left inner guards.
- Refit the intake hose from the turbo to the air box.
- Undo clamps and reset the inter cooler hoses to remove tension.
- Refit front inner guard trims to suit.
- Refit inner guard rubber flaps. Use zip ties for the factory inner flaps or purchase the Munji Extended Plastic Guards to suit body lift.
- Refit all the interior trims
- Remove rubber grommets at the inside front of the tub to locate the bolts.
- The tub can be lifted with two people.
- Undo all the bolts for the tub – two at the front inside of the tub and two at the rear under the tub.
- Place the smaller two blocks at the front of the tub and the load block in the centres with the rubber pad on top.
- Place the bigger block at the back of the tub.
- Locate all the bolts and start threads before tightening. Make sure you line up the tub with the cab.
- Refit fuel filler, tow bar plug and the inner guards.
- Bend both mounts to fit wings of the tub to the frame.
- Refit grommets and the tub liner.
Don’t forget! Post a picture and tag Munji in it.
Big Thanks to Jason Harris for assisting in the testing and development of this kit including the instructions. We are still developing the final parts to the 2" to make it a complete kit.