Instructions - Steering Rack Relocation Kit (2020 Onwards Isuzu D-max/MU-X and Mazda BT-50 - 4JJ3) Posted on 19 Dec 11:27
The installation of this Offset Rack Drop Kit requires good mechanical knowledge and tools. It is important to follow these instructions.
N.B: Be very careful when working underneath your vehicle, ensure you are correctly using jack stands or the hoist locks if working on a hoist. Ensure the Ignition is switched off for at least 30 seconds before disconnecting any wiring connections.
Munji Recommended Wheel Alignment Specs:
- Caster: +3 Degrees LH & RH
- Camber: 0 Degrees LH & RH
- Toe: +0.5mm LH & RH - Total +1mm
- 32mm, 22mm Spanner
- Socket Set
- Ratchet with long and short extension
- Flat Screwdriver
- Pliers/Adjustable Pliers
- Ensure ignition has been switched off for at least 30 seconds prior to beginning the install, and that the steering is pointed straight ahead with the steering wheel locked in place. Begin by removing the bash plates underneath the vehicle.
- Remove the clamps holding the rack end boots on using a flat screw driver for the larger inner clamp, and a pair of pliers for the smaller outer clamp. Slide the boot all the way down to the end of the rack end as shown.
- Remove both rack ends from the steering rack using a 36mm spanner or adjustable pliers. Unthread completely and carefully rest the rack ends on the Lower Control Arm.
- Looking the RH Front wheel, carefully mark the spline connection for the steering shaft with a paint pen or similar. Ensure it is a neat mark so you can accurately line the spline up after. Remove the 12mm locking bolt and carefully wiggle the two halves of the steering shaft until the splines separate.
- Remove the 1x bolt holding the rear diff mount to crossmember, and the 1x bolt holding the RH side diff mount to chassis. Carefully lower the RH side of the diff and push backwards to gain more room.
- Remove the 2x wiring connectors to steering rack and move wiring out of the way. Remove the 4x 22mm Bolts holding the rack to the chassis. The Top 2x Rack bolts have nuts behind the mounting brackets that need to be held. Some of the bolts will need to stay with the rack as there isn't enough room to slide them out. The top LH bolt is best accessed through LH wheel arch, while the remining three bolts and wiring connections from underneath the vehicle. The red arrows below point to the Steering Rack mounts.
- Carefully lower the rack down, being mindful of the steering shaft as it has to snake through the engine mount. The diff will need to be pushed back slightly on the RH side to have clearance to remove it.
- Now that the rack is out of the vehicle, you can sit the RH and LH cutting templates over the OEM steering rack mounts and mark alongside the edge of the templates with a fine line pen or similar. The templates can then be removed and the mounts cut off, being sure to cut TO the line you have marked. A reciprocating saw works best for a clean straight cut, and minimises sparks under the vehicle. You can use a grinder to start the cut, this also prevents the reciprocating saw from wandering around before it bites. Once you have cut the old mounts off, the horizontal lip on the upper half of both mounts will need to be round back slightly as indicated in the photo shwon below to make installing easier.
- You can now assemble your new mounts. Each side is marked LHS and RHS, simply find the Aluminium and Steel LHS bracket, align the pins in the holes and bolt together with the M6 screws provided. Repeat for RHS. Once complete, loosely bolt both mounts to the steering rack in the correct orientation as shown.
- The mounts can now be test fitted to the vehicle. The locator on the Aluminium parts will line up with a hole on the chassis rail, and the mounts can be loosly bolted in with the provided M10 bolts through the hole in the aluminium mount. Check that the mounts are not hitting on the remainder of the OEM brackets, causing them to sit skewed or unevenly. If your are struggling to get the M10 bolts in, there is a good chance the new brackets are hitting on a part of the old mounts. Check for scratch marks on your new mounts and grind down the old mounts accordingly. When the mounts are loosely bolted in, tighten the bolts on the steering rack to line the mounts with the rack, then tighten the M10 bolts holding the mounts up.
- The mounts can now be tack welded into place and the steering rack removed. Prep the chassis for welding by grinding off any paint around the original welds and weld in the new mounts, welding over the top of the original factory welds. Once welded, paint over any raw metal to prevent rusting.
- You can now carefully refit the Steering rack to the vehicle. Ensure you fit the bolts that had to come out together with the rack before you fit the rack to the car. Loosely fit all 4x Rack bolts before tightening them up.
- The two electrical connectors can be refitted to the rack. Be sure to 'click' them together to prevent any issues arising.
- Refit the RH and Rear diff mount bolts and tighten up. Be sure to check none of the vacuum lines to the diff have been pulled off during the install.
- The steering shaft can now be refitted, being sure to re-align the marks you have made on the splines so the steering wheel remains aligned. Refit and retighten locking bolt.
- The rack ends can also be refitted and tightened, along with the rack boots. The factory inner boot clamps can be swapped for the provided stainless steel zip ties to make refitting the boots easier. Use a flat screwdriver against the head of the clamp whilst pulling the band tight with pliers to achieve a strong grab.
- Fit the bashplate spacer using the provided countersunk M6 screw. Ensure it locates in the chassis and sits flush. The bash plates can now be refitted using the longer bolts provided and a wheel alignment carried out. That's it, your done!
If you have any issues please contact me and I am more than happy to assist.
All the best with your 4weeling. Stay safe.