N.B: NEVER REST ANY PART OF YOUR BODY UNDER A VEHICLE UNLESS YOU HAVE SUFFICENT SUPPORTS AS WELL AS THE JACK. A CAR CAN SLIP OFF A JACK OR THE JACK COULD FAIL. PLEASE ALWAYS BE CAREFUL.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

• Socket Set
• Pry bar or large flat screw driver
• Allan Key set
• Jack/axle stands
• (Optional loctite) 

STEPS:

1. First things first, make sure to be parked up on flat ground. Hand brake on and in gear. The front wheels need to be removed, so jack the vehicle up and use jackstands to hold it safely.
2. Remove all bash plates to give access to the front diff and mounts.
3. Spray all 4 mounting bolts for the diff side brackets with a penetrant like WD-40, then crack loose. Once all bolts are loose, you can now prepare to do the install.
4. Remove the hubs from the vehicle by loosening and removing the top and lower ball joint bolts from off the control arms, along with the sway bar link and tie rod end off the knuckle. There is also a circlip that holds the CV behind the free wheeling hub, remove the freewheeling hub and circlip. There may be shims behind the circlip, keep them with the side they came from.
5. Remove the front shocks to give more room for the CV plate to come out.
6. Next, support the diff by means of a jack or axle stands.
7. The 4 side mount plate bolts can now be unbolted from the chassis. Once the side mounting plates are dropped the diff must be rested on the axel stands or jack. Remove the mounting plates together with the CV from the vehicle. The driver side of the diff will likely leak its oil out, so it's a good idea to have something there to catch it.
8. Remove the mounting plates from the CV by removing the circlip holding the bearing in, and sliding it off. Then remove the circlip holding the oil seal in and slide that off, along with the diff mounting plate. 
9. If you ordered the complete kit with pre-modified mounting brackets, skip to step 13. If you have the weld in plates, continue to step 9.
10. Now align the Munji weld in plates to the diff mounting plates. Sit the Munji plates on the diff plate and align all the holes. The plates are mirrored, so if they don't line up, flip them. Then, slide the plate down until the locator tabs along top edge near the logo align with the top two holes of your CV plate. The centre hole for the CV should be 25mm lower, and the diff holes will all twist slightly. 
11. Once aligned, mark along the outside perimeter. Cut out along the inside of perimeter and grind it so the Munji Plate is a neat fit. You should have cut through the centre of the top 2 holes so the locator tabs can still align in them. These are important as these set your diff position. 
12. Carefully weld Munji plate in to prevent warping. Grind welds down on the inside face that will interfere when bolting it up to diff. Paint the plates to prevent rust, and if you have new bushes now you can fit them to the mounting plates.
13. You can now refit the modified mounting plates to the CVs, along with the bearing, seal and circlips. If you have a CV quick release kit, you can fit the mounting plates to vehicle without the CVs, and fit the Quick release plates to your CVs along with the CV bearing, seal and circlips.
14. Refit CVs to vehicle. Clean and grease up all bolts before installing to ensure you don't damage any threads, as these vehicles are quite old and can have lots of dirt built up.
15. Reinstall the hubs, ensuring everything is tightened and locking pins are reinstalled. 
16. Refill diff oil if some has leaked out.
17. Now replace all bash plates and ensure there is clearance to the diff. In some cases and some makes of plates they may contact each other. If this is the case you may need to add some washers as spacers or check the plate is not bent out of shape.
18. And your done!

It is always important to go for a short test drive and re-check all nuts are tight. Also recommended to check after a few weeks of driving.

If you have any issues please contact me and I am more than happy to assist.

All the best with your 4weeling. Stay safe.