Installation Guide

The installation of this Body Lift Kit requires minimal mechanical knowledge and tools. It is important to follow these instructions, also helpful to have a spotter/another person helping you while you jack the body off the chassis. Always keep an eye on all lines and pipes when lifting and do not ever put yourself in-between or under a suspended load. Safety first!!

First steps for preparing for the lift:

• The bottom half of your standard shroud will come into contact with your engine fan. You can remove the shroud (which simply unbolts) or a thermo fan can be fitted.
• Your gear stick will prevent you from selecting 2nd and 4th gear. I have a spacer that I use in my RA7 which raises up the gearbox just enough to clear these gears, with that it also lifts the transfer case up to level with the cross member instead of sitting low, this also fits the TF/R9/RC/RG/Dmax.
• Fuel filler extended. You might be able to get away with stretching but I sleeved another silicone pipe to extend. If you have a tray it should be ok.
• You may find your breathers may stretch or brake if perished at the front passenger’s side inner guard, so best to check them before the lift.

 TOOLS REQUIRED

• Socket Set
• Combination Spanners
• Good Stable Jack
• CRC/WD40/INOX (spray oil)
• Drill
• Optional – fish oil/cavity wax

 STEPS:

1. First of all it is best to spray all your body mount bolts on your car with oil
   (CRC/WD40/INOX) and let it soak.
2. Loosen off your top radiator hose as it will need to twist slightly when you lift.
3. Remove the lower section of the radiator shroud by unclipping it.
4. Undo the fuel filler plate (the bolts seen from fuel filler) from the tub and allow it to slump.
5. I would recommend disconnecting the battery just in case you happen to arch it out or pinch a lead.
6. Start by loosening all the body mounts.
   
   1. You have 2 x mounts at the front of the car – seen from the wheel arch.
   2. 6 x mounts under the main cabin – 3 each side.
   3. 6 x mounts under the tub.
7. It is best to lift the cabin first.
   
   1. Leaving the rear 2 cabin mounts loose, fully undo the remaining front 4
      cabin mounts and 2 very front mounts. This will allow you to carefully
      jack up the front of the cabin only enough to slip in the very front 2
      blocks. (Leave the rear 2 mounts in to keep the cabin located).
      
   2. As you are jacking the front of the cabin up slowly, have a spotter
      helping you by looking around to see if anything is stretching or pulling
      funny.
      
   3. As soon as you’re high enough to fit the block in, do so and fit the 2
      bolts with their nylock nuts and washers, including the large Munji 4X4
      washers. (These 2 will be wrapped together).
   4. Do not tighten these front mounts up fully yet.
   5. Now proceed to undo the rear 2 cabin mounts.
   6. Lift carefully and from the front to the back fit the lifting blocks in with
      their bolts and loosely tighten them by hand until all the cabin blocks
      are in with their bolts. (These 6 bolts are the second longest without
      nuts just the washers and spring washers).
   7. During this lift of the cabin it is so important that you keep an eye on all
      the parts stretching and pulling that they are not locking out. Also check that the steering shaft is sliding ok.
   8. Now it is ok to tighten up the cabin bolts and any other hoses and lines
      you may have had to loosen for this stage.

8. Now it is time for the tray/tub lift.
   1. The tub is basically the same process as the cabin, loosen all 6 bolts and leave in the rear 2 to keep the tray/tub from falling/moving.
   2. Undo the other 4 and jack up the front of it to slip in the blocks and bolts.
   3. Once the front 4 are in proceed to fit the rear 2.
9. Now you will find the last 2 blocks which have the bolts threaded into them,
   these are the 2 extra blocks for the loading of the tub.
   1. These extra mounts only get secured to the chassis as there is no way of mounting to the tray/tub. Its ok as the bolt has a spring washer on it to prevent it from coming loose.
   2. The remaining 2 mounts now sit directly above the axel either side. There is the same rubber pad there that needs to be drilled out for the bolt to go through. (Please note these rubber pads need to stay there for insulation).
10. You can now resecure the fuel filler and check all the mounting bolts are tight.
    (It is always a good idea to double check your bolts).
11. Check your body strap under the back of the cabin to see if it needs bending if it is touching you need it to be clear of contact. (This will drive you crazy if you don’t bend it clear). Do Not Remove The Strap!! Some models do not have this strap.
12. It is now that you can fit the Gearbox Spacer.
13. Reconnect your battery if you are certain you haven’t pinched any power
    leads and BROOM BROOM you should be good to go.
14. All depending on the bar work you have on your car, you will at some stage
    want to raise bars, some brands have kits you can buy for direct bolt up some have to be custom made.

Optional (but recommended)

When fitting the bolts you can spray fish oil or cavity wax in there to help prevent
seizing of the bolts. I have used grease in mine as I go through a lot of water and
beach work.

It is always a good idea to check your bolts every time you do a service, the same as you would your wheel nuts.

If you have any issues please contact me and I am more than happy to assist.

All the best with your 4weeling. Stay safe.