Instructions - EGR Cooler Delete (RA, RA7, RC, Early D-Max Shape) Posted on 2 Jun 11:10
The installation of this EGR Cooler delete requires basic mechanical knowledge and tools. It is important to follow these instructions.
N.B: Be very careful when removing EGR cooler bolts as they are prone to snapping off in the exhaust manifold. This install is best done after prolonged soaking of the bolts in lubricant, and when the car is cold.
- 10mm Socket/Spanner
- 12mm Socket
- Ratchet with long and short extension
- 5mm Allen Key
- 12mm Spanner
- Flat Screwdriver
- Hi-Temp Gasket Maker
- (Optional) Coolant to suit your vehicle
- Ensure ignition has been switched off for at least 30 seconds prior to beginning the install. Open bonnet and remove engine cover and MAP sensor plug.
- Loosen hose clamps holding the hot pipe to the turbo, and the cold pipe to the throttle body. The hose clamp on the intercooler to cold pipe should be slightly loosened to allow a little bit of play to assist with refitting, the hose clamp on the hot side does not need to be removed. Remove the 10mm bolt holding cold pipe to throttle body as well. (10 mm socket/spanner, flat head screwdriver needed)
- Remove 2x 12mm nuts and 2x 12mm bolts holding intercooler to intercooler brackets. Carefully lift intercooler off the intercooler brackets, along with hot and cold pipes. (12mm socket needed)
- Remove the 3x 12mm bolts holding the egr cooler heat shield on, and remove the heat shield. (12mm spanner needed)
- Remove the 3x 12mm bolts at the front of the egr cooler into exhaust manifold using the long extension, and the 2x 12mm nuts at the back of the cooler into the head of the motor using the short extension. Undo the 1x 12mm bolt at the front of the cooler into the head of the motor using the spanner. (12mm socket, 12mm spanner, ratchet and extensions needed)
- Carefully remove 1x hose clamp on the side of the cooler and 1x underneath the front of the cooler beneath the flange. The cooler should be free to come out now. Remove the hose clamp on the coolant hose left behind and remove the coolant hose. (A pair of pliers are needed)
- Using the 2x 12mm nuts removed off the back of the cooler, remove the 2x studs at the back of the head by threading both nuts on 1x stud, tightening together and then loosing the inner nut to remove the stud.
- Clean the mating surface on the back of the head and the top of the exhaust manifold with degreaser and wipe dry. Apply Hi-Temp Gasket Maker to the rear bracket mount (if you have a front mount kit, this will be the two bolt blanking plate) and a fit to the head using the 2x shorter stainless screws supplied in the kit. Apply Hi-Temp Gasket Maker to the front blanking plate (3 bolt plate) and fit using the 3 longer stainless screws supplied in the kit. (5mm Allen key needed)
- Fit the supplied hose joiner to the long side of the new silicone coolant pipe and tighten using the supplied hose clamp. Feed a hose clamp onto the short side of the pipe and onto the joiner, then fit the joiner into the front coolant hose and tighten. Fit the short side of the pipe into the rear hard coolant line and tighten. If the silicone pipe presses against the turbo actuator or exhaust manifold, it is suggested to refit the original hose heat shielding to the new silicone pipe to prevent wear. (Flat screwdriver needed)
- Loosely bolt up the front intercooler bracket mount using the original 12mm bolt. Refit the factory intercooler bracket and adjust the front mount till it lines up and the factory intercooler bracket is tightened using the original 2x 12mm bolts. Tighten the front intercooler bracket mount to the head. (12mm socket needed)
- Refit the intercooler to the brackets and the hot and cold pipes to the turbo and throttle body respectively. Tighten 2x 12mm bolts and 2x 12mm nuts holding the intercooler to its brackets and the hose clamps on the hot and cold pipes. Be careful to not pinch the rubbers in the cold pipe on the throttle body. (12mm socket needed)
- Refit the 10mm bolt holding the cold pipe down, refit engine cover and plug MAP Sensor back in. (10mm socket needed)
- Carefully re-bleed your coolant system to ensure no air is trapped and you're finished!
If you have any issues please contact me and I am more than happy to assist.
All the best with your 4weeling. Stay safe.