N.B: NEVER REST ANY PART OF YOUR BODY UNDER A VEHICLE UNLESS YOU HAVE SUFFICENT SUPPORTS AS WELL AS THE JACK. A CAR CAN SLIP OFF A JACK OR THE JACK COULD FAIL. PLEASE ALWAYS BE CAREFUL.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

• Socket Set
• Pry bar or large flat screw driver
• Allan Key set
• Jack/axle stands
• (Optional loctite) 

STEPS:

1. First things first, make sure to be parked up on flat ground. Hand brake on and in gear. 
2. Remove all bash plates to give access to the front diff and mounts.
3. Loosen off all mounting bolts for the diff side brackets and rear mount to the crossmember.
4. Once all bolts are loose, you can now prepare to do the install.
5. First is to support the diff by means of a jack or axle stands.
6. The front mount plates need to be unbolted from the chassis and then the rear mount.
7. Once the front mounts are dropped the diff must be rested on the axel stands or jack.
8. The supplies mount plates have a locator fitted that will line up with the hole in the chassis, this will also determine left and right side. The plates will sit parallel with the chassis and use the supplies M14 socket head bolts to secure to the chassis.
9. You can carefully slide the diff forward to line up with the new mounting holes for the diff plates. Please note these holes are on a slight angle to allow for the slight angle on the pinion. Hand thread in the supplied bolts a few threads deep. (At this point please check all breather lines and cables to the diff are still attached. Later models we found one of the breather lines pulls tight and it is easiest to unclip the hard line from the chassis which allows the soft line to stay connected and straight, safe from crimping/kinking.)
10. This now allows you to undo and replace the rear mount with the supplied billet part. Please ensure you reuse the rubber washer against the bolt head from the original hardware not the washer against the Crossmember.
11. If this appears to be tight to work around the crossmember you can undo the crossmember to gain better access but you must support the pinion so it does not drop.
12. Once the rear mount is tight, this can be mounted to the crossmember and tightened.
13. Now tighten the front mounts up fully.
14. Now its time to fit the front shaft spacer.
15. Undo the bolts and slip the spacer in with the holes lined up.
16. You will find the supplied bolts have to slide in the opposite way to the standard bolts. The supplied nuts are custom made to locate to the machined pinion. I highly recommend using loctite on these threads.
17. These bolts are to be tightened up and it is a good idea to grease the sliding spline while your there.
18. Now replace all bash plates and ensure there is clearance to the diff. In some cases and some makes of plates they may contact eachother. If this is the case you may need to add some washers as spacers or check the plate is not bent out of shape.

It is always important to go for a short test drive and re-check all nuts are tight. Also recommended to check after a few weeks of driving. We have had a few people finding their front spacer bolts loose. 

If you have any issues please contact me and I am more than happy to assist.

All the best with your 4weeling. Stay safe.