Instructions - 2” Body Lift Kit – RA/RC/RA7/Early DMAX Posted on 30 Jul 17:03

Installation Guide

The installation of this Body Lift Kit requires minimal mechanical knowledge and tools. It is important to follow these instructions carefully is helpful to have another person assisting/spotting you while you jack the body off the chassis. Always keep an eye on all lines and pipes when lifting and do not ever put yourself in-between or under a suspended load. Safety first!!

Disclaimer

The 2” Body Lift is not road legal in every Australian State. You will need to check with your relevant states regulations to see whether this lift is road legal. We recommend that you obtain a modification plate for your vehicle following any vehicle body lift to ensure its road legality.

Please note that this is a general guide only and has been created to suit the Munji Performance 2” Body Lift process. If you are ever in doubt, seek assistance.

Preparing your Ute for the 2” Body Lift 


You need to understand that the beauty of a 2” body lift comes at a price, being that there will be other issues (some major and some minor) that you will need to address:-

Part

Issue

Suggested Modification

Fan Shroud

The bottom half of your standard shroud will come into contact with your engine fan.

You can unclip and remove the bottom half of your shroud

OR

Munji Performance Thermo Fan and Shroud

Steering Shaft

Your steering shaft will come into contact with your turbo exhaust housing and opens up the slip spline/joint to an unsafe point.

Munji Performance Steering Correction Plate

Gear Stick

Your gear stick will prevent you from selecting 2nd and 4th gear. This can also be fitted to the auto transmission which gives transfer case clearance and extra tail-shaft clearance from crossmember.

Munji Performance Gear Box Spacer

Fuel Filler

Your fuel filler pipe will need to be extended.

You may be able to get away with stretching out the bend in the pipe however, you may need an extension sleeve.

Front Diff. Breathers

You may find your breathers may stretch or brake if perished at the front passenger’s side inner guard.

Best to check them before the lift. If perished replace with silicon tube.

EGR Valve

On the 4JJ1 model you may find the EGR will rub on a vacuum hose that runs below it.

Have a close look after performing the lift, you might need to wrap it with tape or something similar on the spots where it rubs.

Cabin Strap

Your cabin strap will rub heavily against the chassis mounting point causing it to squeak, rattle and knock with any movement.

The cabin strap will need a slight amount of persuasion to bend down to prevent rubbing, this can be done with a lever to bend or if you split a little section of hose you can insulate it with the hose.

Bull Bar

A 2” Body Lift will NOT raise your bull bar.

Depending on the bull bar, the brand may make a bracket to suit a body lift.

Engine Cover

The engine cover will rub on the clutch master cylinder and the intake pipes.

The engine cover needs to be trimmed around where contact is made. It is easily cut with a Dremel or a grinder.

 

Tools Required

  • Socket Set;
  • Combination Spanners;
  • Good Stable Jack;
  • CRC/WD40/INOX (spray oil);
  • Drill;
  • Optional – fish oil/cavity wax.

Items Included in this Kit

  • 14 x 2” Blocks @ 75mm diameter (through drilled) (“75mm blocks”)
  • 3 x 2” Blocks @ 55mm diameter (“55mm blocks”)
  • 2 x M 10 x 180mm bolts with:- (“170mm bolts”)
    • 4 flat washers
    • 2 spring washers
    • 2 nylock nuts
  • 6 x M 10 x 170mm bolts with:- (“180mm bolts”)
    • 6 flat washers
    • 6 spring washers
  • 6 x M 12 x 100mm bolts with:- (“90mm bolts”)
    • 6 flat washers
    • 6 spring washers
  • 3 x 14 Gauge button head screws, used as location for the 55mm blocks.

 

STEPS:

WARNING:- If you have bar work on the tub/tray (headboard) or you have a sports bar, you are best to go from side to side when installing the lift, not front to back as the instructions say below, as your cabin may hit the bar as you are lifting the front up.

 

  • First of all, it is best to spray all your body mount bolts on your car with oil (CRC/WD40/INOX) and let it soak. By the time you finish spraying the last bolt, the first one should be right to go. Hopefully, by spraying the bolts, it will make the bolts easier to undo and remove.
  • Loosen off your top radiator hose (as it will need to twist slightly when you lift the body).
  • Remove the lower section of the radiator shroud by unclipping it (there is one (1) clip either side of the shroud).
  • Undo the fuel filler plate (the bolt that is seen from the fuel filler) from the tub and allow it to slump. Also, you may need to remove your fuel filler cap as it will hold up and not fall through when you lift the body.
  • I recommend at this point disconnecting the battery, just in case you happen to arch it out or pinch a lead. Keep in mind that disconnecting the battery may affect the electronics of the car.
  • Start by loosening all the body mounts (These steps will differ for Space Cabs and Single Cabs). The mounts locations are as follows:-
      • Two (2) mounts at the front of the car – seen from the wheel arch. (“front mounts”)
      • Six (6) mounts under the main cabin – three (3) each side. (“cabin mounts”)
      • Six (6) mounts under the tub – three (3) each side (“tub mounts”
    • Lift the cabin by:-
      • Front Mounts - fully undo the two (2) front mounts.
      • Cabin Mounts - leaving the rear two (2) cabin mounts loose, fully undo the remaining front four (4) cabin mounts
      • This will allow you to carefully jack up the front of the cabin only enough to slip in the very front two (2) blocks. (N.B. Leave the rear two (2) cabin mounts in to keep the cabin located). IMPORTANT:- If you have a standard front bumper bar, you will need to either remove the bar or loosen off the bottom mounting points from the bar to the chassis (Reinforcement Bar), to allow that to lift away from the chassis. This MUST be done before you jack the front of the cabin up.
      • As you are jacking the front of the cabin up slowly, have a spotter help you by looking around to see if anything on the car is stretching or pulling.
      • As soon as the cabin is high enough to fit the 75mm blocks in, do so and fit the two (2) 170mm bolts with their nylock nuts and washers. Do not tighten these front mounts up fully yet.
      • Now proceed to undo the rear two (2) cabin mounts fully (seeing as the front two (2) are now located).
      • Lift carefully and from the front to the back fit the 75mm blocks in with the 180mm bolts and loosely tighten them by hand until all the cabin blocks are in with their bolts.
      • During the lift of the cabin it is extremely important that you keep an eye on all the parts stretching and pulling, to ensure that they are not locking out. Also check that the steering shaft is sliding ok.
      • Now tighten up all the cabin bolts and any other hoses and lines you may have had to loosen for this stage.
    • Lift the tub by:-
      • The tub is the same process as the cabin, loosen all six (6) bolts and leave in the rear two (2) bolts to keep the tray/tub from falling/moving.
      • Undo the other four (4) and jack up the front of the tub it to slip in the 75mm blocks and the 90mm bolts.
      • Once the front (4) are loosely secured proceed to fit the rear two (2).
    • 55mm blocks - These are the three (3) extra blocks for the loading of the tub. These extra mounts are only located to the chassis as there is no way of bolting them to the tray/tub. This is ok with the use of the screw heads to locate, the blocks are then secured under compression:-
      • One (1) 55mm block will be at the front centre of the tub where there will be a rubber pad. There will already be a hole drilled in the steel, you will need to drill this through the rubber pad. This will need to be drilled or cut to allow the screw to locate into the middle of the plate. (N.B. This rubber pad needs to remain for insulation).
      • The remaining two (2) 55mm blocks will sit directly above the axel either side. There will be the same rubber pad there that needs to be drilled out for the screw to locate into. (N.B. These rubber pads need to remain for insulation).
    • You can now resecure the fuel filler and check all the mounting bolts are tight. (It is always a good idea to double check your bolts).
    • Check your body strap under the back of the cabin to see if it needs bending or flipping around. If it is touching the chassis mounting point you need it to be clear of contact. (This will drive you crazy if you don’t bend it clear). Do Not Remove the Strap!!
    • IF PURCHASED:- Install your Munji Gear Box Spacer and Munji Steering Correction Plate.
    • IF APPLICABLE:- Reconnect your battery if you are certain you haven’t pinched any power leads.

    Optional (but recommended)

    When fitting the bolts you can spray fish oil or cavity wax in there to help prevent seizing of the bolts. I have used grease in mine as I go through a lot of water and beach work.

    I always recommend to check your bolts every time you do a service, the same as you would your wheel nuts.

    If you have any issues please contact me and I am more than happy to assist.

    All the best with your 4weeling. Stay safe.